– by Hans Tammemagi –
Two bald eagles soar effortlessly, high above orderly rows of flourishing vines on the grounds of the Church & State Winery in Central Saanich. The10-acre vineyard features a fountain, spouting water that glitters and sparkles in the sunshine. The winery building, an architectural masterpiece encircled by verandahs and decorated with colourful banners and hanging flower pots, stands dominantly on a rise. It’s an attractive winery and would fit seamlessly into internationally renowned wine regions such as the Napa Valley or the Barossa Valley.
Inside the winery is an expansive, elegant, open-concept room with high-vaulted ceiling that includes a tasting bar, shop, restaurant and an open kitchen with a wood-fired oven and gleaming stainless-steel counters. Looking around the large area while sipping a crisp Pinot Gris or Chardonnay at the tasting bar, you can almost hear and feel the excitement of the approximately 100 weddings and functions held here every year. Today, the warmth and sunshine has drawn visitors onto the shady verandah where they enjoy their cuisine and wine with sweeping views over the vineyards. A constant flurry of waiters delivers gourmet thin-crust pizzas, charcuterie platters, Salt Spring mussels and, of course, chilled bottles of white wine.
While pouring a slightly oaked Gravelbourg Chardonnay, the server explains the winery was purchased in 2004 and opened in 2005 after major renovations. “Church represents the heart and State is symbolic of the head, a harmony of spiritual and worldly,” she explains. “What makes Church & State special,” she adds, “is that the owner Kim Pullen and his family pay meticulous attention to detail.” One can see, and taste, the results.
Church & State wines come in three classes: the Quintesssential series is top-of-the-line, reserved for the perfect embodiment of a wine. Next are the Coyote Bowl and Church & State series. In 2013, a total of 14,000 cases of wine were produced. Whites include Pinot Gris, Viognier, Trebella and Chardonnay. Reds include Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The excellence of the wines, and the expertise of winemaker Jeff Del Nin, is demonstrated by Church & State wines having won many prizes and awards, but none better than the award for best Canadian red wine four times in five years.
Church & State has set the bar high, and is easy to visit, thanks to its location next to the Victoria Butterfly Gardens on Benvenuto Road, which leads to Buchart Gardens. There is a sister facility in Oliver, at the south end of the Okanagan Valley, which consists of 85 acres and produces all the wines, except the Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, which grow on the Vancouver Island property.
Sitting on the verandah, sipping an excellent Pinot Noir while gazing over the rolling vineyard, it feels good to be in a world-class winery that’s thriving right here on Vancouver Island.
