story and photos by Yvonne Maximchuk –
While the Saanich Peninsula is undeniably a fabulous place to live, many make a quick exit in the summer, voyaging the edge of Vancouver Island in search of nature, respite and adventure. The Broughton Archipelago is boating heaven and to enter, one must meet the challenge of Johnstone Strait. If 2023 is the year you venture northward, the rewards are unparalleled beauty, wildlife encounters and solitude in wilderness spiced with trial by wind, tide and current.
For the reader familiar with the area, the important news is – expect changes. For those visiting for the first time, be aware that not all the guides are up to date.
Lagoon Cove Resort, where little has changed except the ownership, may be your first stop. Dan and Kelley will welcome you with the same warmth as the previous owners before you make your way into the islets and inlets of the Broughton Archipelago.
The kayaker may travel solo or be part of an all-service guided tour. Camping comfort can now be found in Broughton Archipelago Marine Park, on an island in the Fox Group adjacent to Retreat Passage. There are 12 tent platforms, two roofed open-sided “kitchens” with nicely made picnic tables and two composting biffies. BC Parks and Kwikwasut’inux/Hakwa’mis First Nation (owners since 2020 of the marina at Echo Bay) selected the site, and careful construction caused very little disruption to the midden.
Northwest up Cramer Pass to Echo Bay, both the BC Marine Park and Kwaxwalawadi (previously known as Pierre’s @ Echo Bay) are in transition. Although needed work is underway, the marina is open for business. Fill up your fuel tanks and charge the batteries. The aging wooden docks are being upgraded with repurposed fish farm walkways. As boater traffic increases, you’ll find more essential food items in the store/Post Office. Stamps can be purchased for Thursday’s outgoing mail.
The somewhat challenging trail through the forest from Echo Bay to Billy’s Museum and around to Echo Bay Marine Park has been modified with widened pathways and viewing benches. Future vision at Kwaxwalawadi will focus on cultural opportunities; ideas under discussion are First Nations dance and storytelling presentations, local arts and crafts, cedar carving, workshops and demos.
You can camp at Echo Bay Marine Park, but the dock is undergoing demolition by BC Parks. Built in 1963, the Echo Bay Community Centre building has collapsed and the debris remains to be cleaned up. The park has a composting outhouse, a midden beach and a walk by the creek; keep your eyes open for bears, both black and grizzly.
Dive deep into history and coastal books at Billy’s Museum and, for the art lover, paintings and pottery at SeaRose Studio. Paddlers Inn offers kayak support and float-cabin lodging.
Beyond Echo Bay, several small family-owned resorts have closed: Kwatsi Bay Marina, Shawl Bay, Jennis Bay Marina in Drury Inlet. Last stop before Queen Charlotte Strait is Sullivan Bay where you can stock the galley and liquor cabinet and fuel up.
There are many wonderful catered cruises to the Broughton Archipelago to choose from, and each one delivers an incomparable experience.
From rowboat to big yacht, we welcome the boats of summer. Carry some cash and potable water, remember internet is not always reliable, and respectfully honour wilderness protocol; leave no trace.
For more information, visit www.kwaxwalawadi.com and www.bcparks.ca/broughton-archipelago-park/.
