Words & Photos Susan Beiderwieden
I was hopeful I would finally see some whales. After 37 years on Vancouver Island, I had only gotten a few glimpses of the local orcas. So, when the Times Colonist ran an article about the MV Uchuck III, describing the different cruises offered by Getwest Adventures, we signed up. Surely, I thought, a full day aboard a ship cruising Nootka Sound would mean my turn to be the whale whisperer.
Last spring, we had booked a three-night stay on Cortes Island following Labour Day. Like many other Canadians this year, we decided to stay put and explore our own backyard. The addition of the cruise fit with our Cortes plans, extended the mini-break and had the spirit of a big adventure compressed into a day.
I am sold on the idea of micro adventures, a term popularized by British adventurer Alastair Humphreys in 2011. It’s not a new concept, as most of us are used to creating short, affordable, local and accessible breaks from routine. Micro adventuring was an old idea made new during the days of Covid restrictions when we craved distractions. These adventures can be as simple as an urban exploration, camping in the back yard, a spontaneous nature outing or picnic in some park. The possibilities are endless and, as Rick Antonson said in To Timbuktu for a Haircut: “every place, journey, and view holds potential. And there is never a more real landscape than the one where you stand.”
But there was one hitch when we called: the boat was waiting for a part and had been out of service seven weeks. According to the website, www.getwest.ca, the Uchuck III was originally built as an American Yard Minesweeper in 1942, and parts are hard to find. Repairs take time. The boat has been serving the west coast of Vancouver Island since 1955 with trips to lumber camps, fish farms, remote resorts, and pick-up and dropping off passengers and kayakers. There are also cruise options such as the every-Tuesday Nootka Sound day trip, summertime visits to historic Friendly Cove and overnight Kyuquot Adventure cruises offered between June and October.
Meanwhile, as we waited to hear about the cruise, there was our Cortes Island trip. Cortes is one of those places where getting there is half the fun, being only a hop, skip and jump away by a ferry. Located in Desolation Sound between the Sunshine Coast and Vancouver Island, it is known for stunning beaches and as a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. The 900 to 1,000 full-time residents are scattered around the three small community hubs on the southern portion of the Island. We were at Manson’s Landing, which has full services and nearby local activities. A slight smoke haze had settled over the area, preventing clear views of the mountains, but the weather was perfect.
We visited the Hollyhock Retreat Centre (www.hollyhock.ca) to enjoy a lunch made with fresh ingredients from their impressive garden and to stroll the campus. On our final day we saw a one-woman art exhibit at the Old Schoolhouse Art Gallery and talked with the artist. She has a PhD and is a self-described “overeducated oyster farmer” when not writing or painting. Later while packing, we received word that the cruise was on!
Getting to Gold River, you are wedged between rugged cliffs and Upper Campbell Lake, driving along a narrow, snakey road without lights. It’s a reminder of how big, beautiful and wild parts of Vancouver Island are. And – not to drive this road at night!
The weather for our nine-hour cruise on Nootka Sound was mild and calm. The smoke haze continued but couldn’t alter our sense of awe of the area. As the Uchuck III chugged through the beautiful fjord, we watched as crew unloaded and reloaded tons of freight at five stops. We sat in the sun, strolled the decks, talked with crew and fellow passengers, and ate lunch in the galley. The images of the day are imprinted in my memory along with the smell of briny sea air and aroma of spicy chili mingled with diesel.
And the wildlife tally? Seagulls: 3, Whales: 0.
