– by Lara Gladych –
This is the fifth in a six-part series of profiles on some of the Saanich Peninsula’s wonderful restaurants and pubs.
Bill Singer has heard every question in the book, having owned and operated the Rumrunner Pub and Restaurant in Sidney for 25 years. I find myself reaching into my bag of creative questions to come up with something new to inspire him on this particular day.
I ask, “If you could transport this place and the experience it holds for you to any other locale in the world, where would you find yourself?” His response surprises me somewhat. Bill explains to me that the Rumrunner just wouldn’t work for him anywhere else because we wouldn’t find this view again. “This view is a changeable piece of art,” he says admiringly. He points outward to the changing backdrop of Mount Baker, the Islands, and the water. The inherent beauty of where we live is not lost on him.
There’s more than a changeable view outside the Rumrunner these days. Going into fall, it’s the whole of Seaport Place that is being made-over with new tenants and businesses moving into neighbouring buildings. Bill uses the word “delighted” to denote the relief he feels to have new activity in the adjoining spaces. “It was disconcerting to be a stand-alone down here in recent years. I hope the whole area freshens up and comes back to life. it becomes a centre for Sidney, and a good place to do business.”
The long, hot summer was a good one for the Rumrunner. Bill saw tourists in good numbers. Fewer Albertans, but more Americans. Bill enjoys the tourist season because he likes talking to his customers, and the influx of new people keeps things interesting. “Sometimes I think I talk too much,” he chuckles.
I place my order for fish and chips, and opt for the beer-battered variety, though their gluten-free recipe is very popular.
Bill built the Rumrunner in 1990, and wanted his pub to be warm, woody and British-traditional. He didn’t want a copy of something else, but did want to remain within the parameters of tradition, creating a space that felt lived-in and comfortable as it got older. He wanted a social space, and knew that he had to cater to his community of locals in the off-season in particular. Very importantly, he never wanted his community to come second to his tourist clientele.
My fish and chips arrive, and I couldn’t be more ravenous. It’s the first gloomy day we’ve seen in a while, and I”ve been hankering for comfort food – and this meal in particular. It doesn’t disappoint.
Fries first – delicious. They don’t make them themselves, but Bill tells me that they are the highest quality they can bring in. French fries are important, and as much as I seem to write about them from place to place, I’m always pleased when I try really good ones.
The fish (halibut) is fantastic, and I can’t conceal my enthusiasm from Bill as I eat. “We don’t try to puff-up the fish with batter,” he says, and it’s obvious that there’s just the right amount of beer batter, which notably, isn’t greasy either.
I make a big deal about the tartar sauce. It’s so tasty that I have to use it for my fries too! There’s a great flavour and consistency to it, and Bill finally goes back into the kitchen to ask the chef what he puts in it. Capers and pickles. Perfection!
“I’m successful if people come back time and again,” says Bill, towards the end of our really great visit. “ can afford to go anywhere they want, so I want to give them a reason to come back.”
Bill feels like a constant in a community going through a lot of change. He and the Rumrunner are a fixture amidst this ever-changing backdrop of home we call Sidney.
The Rumrunner Pub and Restaurant: 250.656.5643, 9881 Seaport Place, www.rumrunnerpub.ca.
