LIVING OFF THE LAND – Square Root Farm: A Flavourful Formula

by Jo Barnes –

In math, a square root is a number which, when multiplied by itself, produces a much larger number. Square Root Farm, likewise, has grown significantly from its original size and scope.
This farm in Central Saanich began as a small square plot of land, but over the years, through innovative planning and hard work, has become a much larger organic farm enterprise.

“Our first plot of land was a perfect little square,” shares co-owner Chrystal Bryson. “The name Square Root stuck and fit.”

In 2006, Chrystal and partner Ilya Amrhein leased a parcel of land off Mount Newton Cross Road and worked hard to cultivate it. Over time they took over a second leased site that was just down the road.

“In our first season, we were working full time and had only a quarter-acre of land,” says Chrystal. “Now, we have two sites, one that is 2.5 acres, and the other, five acres.”

When Chrystal and Ilya started their business in 2007, they wanted to grow produce that dovetailed nicely with what other local farmers were growing.
“It is a small tight-knit farm community here,” notes Chrystal. “We did not want to interfere and over-produce any one kind of vegetable.”

After doing significant research, Chrystal and Ilya decided to focus on bitter greens and began growing endives, escarole and Italian dandelion chicory. Even though the variety of vegetables has multiplied over the years, these greens are still mainstays.

“They take a bit of getting used to, but the flavours are amazing,” shares Chrystal. “They are excellent in vitamin K and very cleansing.”
Both raised on the Island, the farming duo have been, from an early age, interested in nature and growing things.

“I grew up in Tofino. As a little kid, I was fascinated by farms. I had an interest in becoming a naturalist,” shares Ilya.

Adds Chrystal: “We had a big garden where I grew up in Black Creek. My grandfather was a big veggie grower who settled in the Okanagan.”
Over the years, business relationships with restaurants have grown significantly and now include Agrius, Cafe Brio, Hanks, Part and Parcel, Nowhere and Courtney Room.

“We have an amazing partnership with restaurants,” says Chrystal. “The chefs are interested in different products.”
The call for novel ingredients has prompted a rich diversity in the produce grown at Square Root. As well as the usual favourites such as lettuce, salad greens, beets, radishes, summer squash, kale, beans and a variety of carrots, the farm offers dandelion, fennel, cabbage and radicchio.

The types of produce in demand are ever-changing, but this matches well with the couple’s ongoing fascination with vegetable diversity and flavours.
“When we first started, we did a farmer apprenticeship program,” shares Ilya. “We’re constantly reading books and papers. We’re always learning.”
Adds Chrystal: “We spend a lot of time exploring things that are a bit different. We want to grow quality vegetables for people.”

As well as the Moss Street Market, customers can buy produce through the farm’s Veggie Box Program. Orders can be placed online at www.squarerootfarm.com.

Harvesting quality produce involves hard work and a commitment to respect the land and the farming community.

“Our farm is certified organic with Islands Organic Producers Association (IOPA). This is important to me because of the environment and social issues around farming,” says Chrystal, adding, “It’s a B.C. program started by farmers and we are a part of that farm community.”

Achieving organic status and maintaining that standard hinges on commitment and tracking numerous details. For Chrystal and Ilya, this is all part of being good stewards of the land.

“Good record keeping is part of any business,” comments Chrystal. “I want to keep track. This keeps you in check.”

Daily care of the soil and environment are paramount, and daily farming practices reflect this.

“We do regular cover cropping. For instance, we have kale as an inter-cover crop with white Dutch clover underneath. This adds nitrogen and holds in the soil during the winter,” shares Chrystal.

The couple’s passion, hard work, attention to detail and accumulated expertise over the years reaps rewards.

“We are reminded each week at market by customers,” says Chrystal. “They appreciate what we are doing and comment about the quality and flavours.”

Care for community and environment and a fascination with flavours; it’s a magical mathematical formula that works at Square Root Farm. Here it is good food and dedicated farming, many times squared.

Photo by Amanda Cribdon Photography.

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