Words Richard Hope
Valentine’s Day approaches, and I’m back at Vessel staring at a wall of sparkling wine. With a huge selection to choose from, if you’re like me, it can be a bit of a minefield.
There is an extensive range of sparkling wines available, from locally made Charme de l’Île in B.C. to more well-known categories including Champagne (France), Crémants (France), Prosecco (Italy), Sekt (Germany), and Cava (Spain). There are many new world variations as well, so it can be challenging to find something you might like.
A good place to start is to consider whether you prefer a dry (brut nature or extra brut), off-dry (slightly sweet), or sweet (demi-sec or doux) sparkling wine. The local palate here in B.C. favours bone-dry sparkling wine, and I spend a lot of time trying to convince people that some of the off-dry or even sweeter sparkling wines are very good. Champagne and locally made Charme de l’Île are typically brut to off-dry with sweeter sparkling wines, including Asti from Italy. Sweeter wines pair well with desserts, and drier wines are great as an aperitif or with rich, fried, and umami-rich foods. Think oysters, fried chicken (yes!), sushi, cheeses and spicy foods.
There are various manufacturing methods for sparkling wines, with the traditional method, or “méthode traditionnelle,” being the cornerstone of production. This originated in
Champagne, France, and involves making wine as usual (letting the grapes ferment in a tank or barrel), then bottling the wine and adding yeast and sugar, allowing a secondary fermentation to occur. This reaction produces carbon dioxide that creates the bubbles in the champagne. The sediment is removed through a process called disgorgement, the bottle is topped up and sealed, and the sparkling wine is ready for sale.
Here on Vancouver Island, Charme de l’Île showcases what our local winemakers can do. Like Prosecco, these wines are made using the Charmat method, in which secondary fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks rather than in individual bottles. This approach preserves the fresh, fruit-forward character that makes them so approachable and is perfect for those new to sparkling wine or looking for something vibrant and easy-drinking.
What sets Charme de l’Île apart is its strict appellation rules: every grape must come from Vancouver Island vineyards. This ensures you’re tasting true Island terroir in every glass. Blue Grouse’s Charme de l’Île Blanc offers crisp apple and citrus notes, while both Unsworth and Blue Grouse produce excellent Rosé versions that bring a touch of local strawberry and rhubarb character to your Valentine’s celebration.
One final consideration is whether you prefer organic or natural wine. Organic wines offer some compelling advantages. The process of making organic wine is tightly regulated, with the winemaker having to ensure organic farming practices when growing the grapes (no herbicides or pesticides) and following a regulated manufacturing process. This additional stewardship can result in wines that express their terroir more clearly.
Natural wines, on the other hand, are wines where the grapes are fermented naturally with no added yeasts (yeasts are in the air we breathe), often slowly, with nothing added to the wine. Often, the dead yeast sits at the bottom of the bottle (it’s unfiltered). You could argue this is the most honest version of wine that exists and some of them are very good. However, natural wines can be unpredictable and aren’t for everyone – their funky, sometimes cloudy appearance surprises first-timers.
To help with those last-minute Valentine choices, here are some of my recommendations:
The Local Choice: Unsworth Vineyards – Charme de l’île Blanc. A great expression of local terroir and winemaking, with notes of green apple and peach; perfectly paired with a creamy dessert.
Italian Sparkling Wine: Brachetto d’Acqui. Difficult to track down, but an amazing wine if you can find it. One of the few sparkling wines that goes well with chocolate, this sparkling red from Piemonte in Italy is an incredible dessert wine; perfect for a romantic Valentine’s Day date.
French Sparkling Wine: Domaine Rolet – Crémant du Jura Brut. Originating from the Jura mountains on the Swiss/ French border. These wines are known for their delicate flavours and notes of pear and ripe red apple.
Wild Card: Dr. Loosen – Dr Loosen Sparkling Riesling. This one is a guilty pleasure. It’s a sweet, German white wine made from Riesling grapes. It’s also comparatively cheap, and it’s a great accompaniment for spicy food or as an aperitif.
