Words Richard Hope
With Valentine’s Day approaching, you may be thinking about celebrating with a sparkle. While Champagne might be the first choice, exceptional alternatives offer both quality and value.
The story of Champagne begins in northeastern France, a region the Romans named after the rolling hills of southern Italy’s Campania region. Although the Champagne region is renowned for sparkling wine, the English developed true sparkling wine in 1662. In the frigid winters of northern France, fermentation would mysteriously halt in bottles. When English merchants transported these wines across the Channel, warmer temperatures awakened dormant yeasts, triggering a second fermentation that created the enchanting bubbles we know today.
The French government copyrighted the name “Champagne” in 1891, restricting its use to sparkling wines produced in the Champagne region. Although Champagne was a prestigious product for the wealthy, the Champagne houses were renowned for driving down the price of local grapes, impoverishing local growers and causing numerous riots. Even so, by the end of World War One, Champagne was firmly associated with France and prestige.
Exceptional Alternatives
Prosecco (the Italian sparkling wine from Veneto) has exploded in popularity in Europe and North America. Its popularity is driven mainly by its price – it’s usually cheaper than champagne, at less than $25 a bottle. Prosecco is also sweeter. Notably, it is made in large stainless steel tanks rather than individual bottles, making it far cheaper to produce. Some of the best Prosecco comes from a small triangle section of vineyard in Valdobbiadene, Veneto, Italy, and it typically retails for $40.
Cava comes from Spain and is made from Macabeo grapes, which tend to produce drier sparkling wines. Germany produces Sekt from grapes from all over Europe.
Crémant is incredibly popular across France as an alternative to Champagne and is a growing threat to the latter’s dominance. Good Champagne will retail above $50, but Crémant costs between $25 and $40. Though made similarly, Crémant comes from a different part of the country. Because of rigid legalities, no other region can call its sparkling wine Champagne.
What you find is that each region in France creates its own unique Crémant, with eight regions known for making dry, creamy sparkling wine. Examples include Crémant d’Limoux from the southwest of France – an area that claims to be the hometown of sparkling wine in France. Another example is Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy), renowned for its use of Pinot Noir grapes to add an element of sweetness. Generally, the more time the Crémant has spent ageing (on the lees), the better the wine.
However, Vancouver Island has unique sparkling libations that are worth a try. Charme de l’île is produced across the island, and Averil Creek, Unsworth, and Blue Grouse likewise create unique sparkling wines that really bring out the best in local grapes.
Recommendations
FRV 100 – Jean-Paul Brun 0.75l Vin Mousseaux de Qualite (8.5% vol)
This one was a big seller last year on Vancouver Island but has become a bit harder to find. It is low in alcohol but is truly delicious and unique, being a sparkling rosé wine. Best served chilled as an aperitif.
Caves de Lugny – Crémant de Bourgogne Brut – Caves de Lugny 0.75l
Another popular option on the Island is this dry (brut) Crémant, which has bright aromas of citrus and apple and is slightly creamy on the palate. It is perfect with oysters or white seafood.
Richard Hope is immersed in the wine trade, specializing in helping wine lovers discover new favourites. Keep in touch: kibo.rjhope@gmail.com.
