story by Tilar J. Mazzeo –
Gewurtztraminer does not get enough love. And we should all take a moment to be selfishly happy about this, because it means these wines can be great value.
This is going to be my last column for Seaside Magazine (sniff!). The article over the past two years that people most often mention remembering is my piece on the best boxed wines in the B.C. liquor stores. You’ve all warmed my hearts by remembering that one, because that’s how I know you’re all salt-of-the-earth people I’d be happy to raise a glass with. So let’s take this out with style, and here’s my final secret tip: Gewurtztraminer.
Now, I came to this late … recently, in fact. So if you’re not sure about Gewurtztraminer, I get it. But I’m moving away from this column because I’ve just started the WSET (Wine Spirit Education Trust) Diploma, which wine geeks like myself will tell you means I am tasting promiscuously.
Part of my “assignment” (hey, choose your diplomas carefully, friends!) these past few weeks has been Gewurtztraminer. What’s a bit tricky about this grape is that it’s a cool-climate varietal, a pain in the vineyard, and it only develops its characteristic “spicy” notes if fully ripe. The name in German means “spicy Traminer.” Because it’s grown in cool climates, these wines have high levels of acid (in wine, that mostly means malic acid, which is the “apple” acid, and tartaric acid, which is naturally in grapes and citrus).
The way you tell if you have a nice Gewurtztraminer (much like a nice Riesling) is to see if the winemaker balanced that screaming acidity with just the right amount of natural grape sugars to make the wine walk a tight rope. You want a heady aroma, a nose of spice, bright but not astringent acidity, and enough sweetness that it doesn’t taste like sugar. If it sounds like the perfect pairing for Thai food, you’re on the right track.
My top pick after tasting a whole-lotta Gewurtztraminer? Number one: Zinck Eschberg Gewurtztraminer Vins d’Alsace Grand Cru 2017, for $40 at Vessel. A Grand Cru of $40 is ridiculously underpriced. Go check out what a Grand Cru anything else French will cost you. This wine is biodynamically farmed and earns its designation. Ripe tropical fruits with hints of honey and a touch of cinnamon.
But $40 is $40, and while Alsace is the spiritual homeland of Gewurtztraminer, this is also a grape that does extremely well in B.C. and that I wish was planted more widely on the Island. Those wines are also underpriced for quality. Gray Monk makes a very nice Gewurtztraminer at the
$20 price point that tastes like ripe melons and spices.
Gehringer Brothers makes a Gewürztraminer-Schönburger blend, priced at a bit under $20, that for my money is one of the nicest B.C. wines out there in that price range. I’m not the only one who thinks so, either. This wine is a regular award winner.
So there you have it friends – signing off for now to travel the wine world. I’m going to miss the opportunity to connect with you all here each month, but say hello when you see me in the wine aisle or connect with me if you find something special out there: www.tilar-mazzeo.com.
