Off the Vine – Changing Perceptions

Words Richard Hope

Top Picks from the 2025 Vancouver International Wine Festival

Vancouver hosted its annual International Wine Festival at the beginning of March. I attended various events, including tastings, panels and masterclasses, that challenged my wine assumptions and gave me the chance to source some great recommendations.

The event featured several seminars on sustainability and the industry’s wider challenges. Across North America, wine consumption continues to fall. Many winemakers at the festival highlighted their shift to organic farming practices as a response to changing consumer preferences. This approach isn’t just better for the soil – it’s better for the end-consumer, with noticeable differences in flavour and quality in the
final product.

Another event focused on the market challenges for the wine industry. Even in California, a traditionally strong market, people are drinking and spending less on wine. A significant barrier remains the industry’s perception as a luxury product. Here on Vancouver Island, a glass of local wine will set you back $15 to $20, while a bottle often exceeds $50. For new consumers, it’s far easier to choose a local craft beer at $6 rather than splash out on wine – creating a substantial challenge for producers and retailers.

Interestingly, a speaker highlighted untapped opportunities across North America to reach new consumers from diverse backgrounds. Despite significant purchasing power, 10 to 15% of African American and Latin American consumers have never purchased wine, primarily due to negative retail experiences. With traditional markets shrinking, this represents a crucial growth opportunity for the industry.

Recommendations
My view of California wines changed during the “Best of California” masterclass held by Evan Goldstein, Master Sommelier for the San Francisco Giants. Goldstein’s criteria for quality wines included balance between components, precision (delivering what the label promises) and a genuine sense of place.

These were my personal favourites from the event and come highly recommended.

Robert Mondavi The Estates Fumé Blanc 2021, California
Mondavi is arguably the one who brought Napa winemaking to a global audience in the 1960s. Their latest Fumé Blanc (a winemaking term Mondavi created to market aged Sauvignon Blanc to an American audience) is 87% Sauvignon Blanc and 13% Semillion and has been aged in oak. This is a great white wine from Napa.

Marziano Abbona Tistin 2022, Roero Arneis DOCG, Italy
Italy remains a standout in value and quality for buyers on Vancouver Island. It is possible to buy affordable world-class Italian wines compared to local or American brands. Roero Arneis is a protected area in Piemonte (northwestern Italy), widely known for deep reds like Barolo or Barbaresco. By using carbon dioxide to crush and destem the grapes (thus preserving the flavour), this producer has crafted an outstanding white wine and captured the beautiful flavour of the fruit.

Anatolikos Vineyards, Natural Orange Wine, Greece
Greece has revolutionized its wine industry. What used to be dire is now a revelation, and this year at the wine festival, there were five stands (up from one last year). Last year, the focus was very much on Assyrtiko, a native grape from Santorini. It still remains a standout, and in this natural wine, it’s combined with Malagouzia (believed extinct until the 1970s) and fermented for 270 days in a clay amphorae. This ancient wine production method (going back to ancient Greece and Georgia) produces a startlingly original wine. This is a great natural wine to try, especially if you don’t like the fizz that comes with some natural wines.

Miolo Lote 43, Cabernet Sauvignon – Merlot 2022, Vale Dos Minhedos, Brazil
If you are naive to Brazilian wines like me, this one is intriguing. Vale Dos Minhedos (literally valley of the vineyards) is in the deep south of Brazil, on the border of Uruguay. Brazil has over 1,000 winemakers spread all over the country and produces significant quantities of wine. Most of it stays in Brazil, but some do make it out of the country. This is a punchy red (14.1% alcohol) with a deep red and ruby fruit expression that would pair well with a steak.

Ridge Vineyards Estate Monte Bellow Cab Sauvignon 2021, Santa Clara, California
This wine made me want to jump in my car and drive straight down to California. Ridge Vineyard has been around since the late 19th century and famously in the wine world was one of the wines judged alongside French wines in “The Judgement of Paris,” in 1976. It’s an expensive wine, coming in at US$90, and with a combination of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot, is a fantastic, well-balanced
red with a lot of depth and structure.

Richard Hope is immersed in the wine trade, specializing in helping wine lovers discover new favourites. Keep in touch: Kibo.rjhope@gmail.com

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