story and photos by Scottee Giles –
The long, slow swell from a deep sea ship passing in the distance approached, the ocean undulating like liquid glass in the summer heat. We manoeuvred the bows of our kayaks to face into it, paddling for stability. Each of our vessels were loaded with provisions for a kayaking trip through the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve.
We had departed from Canoe Cove Marina just north of Sidney. The low slack tide just after dawn allowed us to navigate Colburne Passage easily, taking in our surroundings: a wide-eyed seal, an eagle soaring overhead, and clusters of forested islands. We slipped between Knapp and Pym Islands, out into Shute Passage, paddling northeast toward Portland Island. Stunning West Coast scenery stretched in every direction and I felt a deep sense of peace, connected to nature. That soon turned to high alert as a massive BC Ferry came into view near Salt Spring off our port side, making us look very small.
The crossing is only five nautical miles (9km) but we took our time and spent three hours reaching Portland Island. It’s one of many destinations in the Gulf Islands National Park which encompasses parts of Sidney Island, D’Arcy, Russell, Prevost, Saturna, the Penders, Isle-de-Lis, and Cabbage Islands. Portland has a rich history: Hawaiians once settled there, Europeans built thriving farms, and in 1967 Princess Margaret declared it a protected park.
Rustic, water-access backcountry camping sites are available at multiple locations throughout the park with pit toilets and food caches but no potable water.
We spent the day circumnavigating Portland Island and caught glimpses of a transient pod of orcas on the move to the north. We swam, hiked and then headed home, reaching shore as sunset painted the evening sky.
Things to Note:
Travel with an experienced kayaker. Learn marine regulations and how to read nautical charts and tide tables before you go. Research ferry traffic and shipping lanes.
Check the weather forecast and leave a travel plan with a friend
Wear lifejackets and bring a pump, whistle, headlamp and handheld VHF radio.
Packing checklist: https://tinyurl.com/23sk4f6m.
You can buy a BC tidal sport fishing license online at Fisheries and Oceans Canada: https://tinyurl.com/4rjhrzah.
Maintain a distance of 200 metres from whales and do not feed seals/marine mammals
