by Lara Gladych –
This is the fifth in a six-part series of profiles featuring some of the Saanich Peninsula’s wonderful restaurants and pubs.
Rise n’ shine! It’s breakfast time at Canoe Cove Joe’s.
The restaurant’s namesake and chef, Joe Bourdeau, and I sit in the back corner of the restaurant, each with a latté in hand.
I notice a few more additions to the décor since my last visit, each playing into either the ocean-grey colour scheme or nautical theme. I also see Muse Winery promotional cards on each table. The restaurant is now featuring two Muse wines, the Pinot Gris and the Cabernet Sauvignon, both of which Joe’s very fond of and which pair well with everything.
What are people eating at this time of year? It continues to be the Ultimate Burger, which is fitting as it’s what he hoped would be his biggest draw. “We get a lot of comments on the burger. People come in and say it’s the best burger around.” According to Joe, they are slowly becoming recognized as a burger joint, and their image is gradually lining up with his original vision: “Burgers and beer.”
As this is our first breakfast interview, Joe decides to serve me something else he may soon generate a following for: his “Bennies.” Four varieties of eggs benedict make their way onto the space in front of me.
Before I cut into them, Joe tells me they’ve recently substituted crumpets where the English muffins used to be. They better absorb everything, and are easier to cut. With my very first bite I agree: the crumpet is a perfect choice. The hollandaise is delicious, and not too heavy. It has a nice translucent-ness that in effect veils the egg.
The Classic Benny is made with finely sliced ham, and nothing more. Classic.
On to the West Coast, which is made with smoked wild salmon and topped with capers. Again, it’s nothing more than it claims to be, but the presentation and taste are clean and simple. Thumbs up.
Joe mentions that at one point he considered “knocking out” some of the Bennies, taking them off the menu, but realized that they’re all popular, and that none outsells any other.
I move next to the All Aboard, which I think would be my husbands’s favourite. It’s topped with bacon, tomato and lots of sauteed mushrooms. The mushrooms really carry the flavour in this one, and yet the bacon and tomato remain distinct.
Lastly, my favourite: the Jolly Roger. Next to his burgers, Joe’s crab cakes have been a huge success for him, and he has carried the taste over into this Benny. The cake on its own is a stand-alone hit, so compound the flavour with hollandaise, young butter lettuce, spinach and a topping of sauteed onions, and you’ve got yourself some Benny heaven. It is rich, but with flavour, not heaviness. The greens are a brilliant addition because they contrast the rest in colour, texture and taste.
I ask Joe if he’s having fun. “Yeah, I am. I get to talk to my customers every morning.” He enjoys hearing what everyone is up to, and is on a first-name basis with many of his regulars, some of whom he sees every day.
What are the biggest lessons he’s learned since opening his own restaurant? “You have to live in the moment. You can’t worry about what wasn’t done, what you should have done. You do the best you can, and hopefully that’s okay with everybody.”
If you’re looking for a place to hold your next private function, Joe would like you to consider using the restaurant in the after-hours. Meetings, parties and even weddings – he’s already hosted one! He’ll tailor the menu to your liking and budget.
The patio opens on April 1. Until then, the cozy inside awaits, and so does your breakfast, Canoe Cove style.
