– by Hans Tammemagi –
Entering the Sea Cider Farm & Cidery property, it looked like a fairy tale with the main building sitting majestically on a rise, framed by neat rows of espaliered apple trees sporting fresh spring growth. My wife and I drove to the parking lot, noticing many bicycles amongst the cars. With its Central Saanich location right next to the Pat Bay Highway, Sea Cider attracts many visitors. We walked through a stylishly decorated tasting and sales room onto the sun-drenched deck where tables overflowed with glistening, elegant glasses holding rich coppery cider. Visitors smiled and laughed in the sunshine and apple trees rolled gently toward the distant Salish Sea.
We joined a complimentary tour. The friendly and knowledgeable guide led us among rows of Kingston Blacks, Chisel Jerseys and Babinetts, explaining that more than 60 types of apples are used to make their cider. Here and there sat wooden hives, their fronts abuzz with bees, who not only pollinate the trees but make honey for the mead-based cider.
We strolled back to the Cidery, passing a large tent that hosts numerous weddings (60 booked for this year!) and functions. Inside the Cidery, we wandered past large stainless-steel tanks and a bottling machine to a row of Kentucky bourbon barrels. The guide explained that their Rumrunner Cider, unique in Canada, was aging inside these barrels.
We returned to the sparkling, sunny deck where a flight of nine glasses of cider was attractively arrayed on the table. Next to it was a charcuterie platter with cheeses from Little Qualicum, Oyama sausage, red pepper hummus, Rumrunner jelly and salt-and-pepper chocolate bark. Mmmm!
I sipped from the lighter Wild English (7% alcohol), a typical British cider, to the Pommeau, a smooth but potent dessert cider (20% alcohol). Rumrunner (13%) was my favourite, of course. Another favourite was Bramble Bubbly, the summer seasonal cider, which includes local blackberries. In the fall, the seasonal cider has hops added, which gives a nose like beer but yields a delectable cider taste. I was astonished to learn that cider, just like wine, has enormous variety and complexity and quietly vowed to begin learning the nuances so I might become a cider snob.
Kristen Jordan, Sea Cider’s owner and manager, purchased the farm in 2004, planted apple trees and had the main building constructed specifically to be a cidery. Production began in 2007. A Cider Master, Kristen constantly experiments with making tasty, innovative new ciders. “I’m proud that we produce B.C.’s only certified organic cider,” she said. “We also strive to bring value to the community. For example, we work with LifeCycles Project Society, which cultivates community health.”
My wife and I smiled, hoisted our glasses and sipped the burnished nectar.
