– by Hans Tammemagi –
Set in a towering forest on rolling slopes in the southeast corner of north Pender Island, Sea Star Vineyards offers solitude, serenity and beauty. Carrying a wine glass, you can stroll in the mountainside and oceanview vineyards while befriending five cute sheep, the resident lawn-mowers. The name Sea Star was chosen because it’s the only winery in Canada that touches the sea. Needless to say, the setting is delightful.
The 27-acre property with seven acres of vineyards was purchased by David Goudge in 2011, and Sea Star officially opened its doors on April 18th, 2014, releasing three white wines, which have a distinctive West Coast character, are beautifully balanced and ideal with sea food (Siegerrebe, Ortega and Stella Maris), a rosé (Blanc de Noir) and two dessert wines (Prose and Poetry). Goudge proudly says: “All our wines are from Pender Island grapes, either grown here or at Clam Bay Farm.” This year the winery produced 1,400 cases.
Next year, Sea Star will also offer a Meritage (Encore), using grapes from the southern Okanagan Valley, where the hot climate yields superior red wine. It plans to double the number of cases produced.
Sea Star’s tasting room is spacious and attractive, with large windows and doors onto the nature outside. A patio and garden seating area provide tranquil places to enjoy the wines.
When asked about his goals, Goudge smiles and says: “First is to embed the winery in the fabric of the community. I’m working hard to build good, friendly connections. We will host Jazz in the Vineyard on Sunday, June 22nd. We will also hold five art shows by local artists.”
“My other goal is make excellent wines,” he continues. “That’s essential if we’re to be successful.” To this end, he’s hired Ian Baker as the winemaker. Formerly of Mistaken Identity Winery on Salt Spring Island, Baker knows how to tease the best out of the West Coast terrain and grapes.
His expertise has already been recognized. Three of Vancouver’s top restaurants – Hawksworth, Blue Water Café and Reflections in the Rosewood Hotel Georgia – carry Sea Star wines. The Stella Maris wine has already sold out, all taken by Blue Water Café. These are astonishing achievements for a winery that has only been open two months. Locals should note that Sea Star wines are served at the Beacon Landing Restaurant in Sidney.
Baker points out that conservation and sound environmental practices are paramount. The winery building has thick concrete walls and is built into the hillside so it is energy efficient. “We operate following organic practices,” says Baker, “and much of the work is done by hand, and, of course, by the sheep.” These values resonate with islanders. Photo by Hans Tammemagi.
