– by Lara Gladych –
This is the fourth in a six-part series of profiles on some of the Saanich Peninsula’s wonderful restaurants and pubs.
After wrapping up my interview with proprietors Valeria and Luigi Cisotto, I walk away from the rustic character of The Latch Inn and Restaurant, and think to myself, I so enjoyed that.
They welcomed me in on a Tuesday afternoon when they would typically be closed, so I had the place to myself. Over almost a full hour talking about food, their business, their daughters, I felt transported, not only by the age of the room and building itself, but by their entire approach to what they do here in their ninth year as owners. On numerous occasions over the course of our meeting I hear them mention something along the lines of wanting to cook what the customer likes. They have a set menu which Luigi describes as Continental, but the most interesting part of their daily service is their specials, which are always numerous and varied.
Luigi tells me about the antipasto that he’ll often bring out for a group to share, always making certain that he’s putting together a selection that agrees with the likes of the table. Pickles, sausage, prosciutto and salami, all made in-house, are among what you’ll sample.
Valeria shares photographs of some of her favourite past specials: roast suckling pig, mussels and clams – “everybody loves this,” she adds – and pork medallions with either blueberry or cherry sauce, to name a few. She cooks almost everything with white wine and fresh herbs.
Luigi chimes in with a mention of his own favourites: swordfish, which he brings in from Florida, and cobia fish, which he insists is better than the go-to halibut that we typically find on the menu in this part of the world. He likes to prepare these with an Italian flare. Incidentally, Luigi is from Italy, and Valeria from Romania. They shared stories with me of their travels back home, as well as the of the cooking that inspires them both.
The menu includes a varied list of staple dishes, but don’t underestimate these as being uninteresting, says Valeria. The lasagna, for example, is made of pasta that Luigi prepares himself, as well as meat that he freshly grinds. Their herbs, tomatoes and cucumbers are just some of what they grow themselves, seasonally, on their farm.
Based on the rest of our conversation, it’s of no surprise when Valeria tells me that, in the constant effort to cook what the customer likes, she is willing to prepare the kitchen to make anything special you desire as long as you are able to call ahead with your request.
Switching gears a bit, Luigi states, “we don’t want people to be intimidated by the table cloths. The way I grew up, we always used table cloths, but this does not mean that we are expensive.” He talks about how lesser quality food has become so expensive, and how there is such value in what they are cooking and the experience of what they provide.
It’s time to sample something. Luigi brings out a bowl of clam chowder he’s had simmering for the dinner crowd. He uses only fresh local clams, and to lend it some colour, he adds sweet potatoes and a red pepper and parsley garnish. It’s delicious. It’s a really, really lovely chowder.
Valentine’s Day, as always, will be a special night at The Latch. It’s a busy evening, and very romantic. On the note of romance, The Latch will gladly host weddings. Valeria speaks candidly about wanting to do whatever a couple would like in terms of food choices and budget. It’s unique to hear hosts be so customer-centered.
Our meeting is coming to a close. “I’ve collected antiques all my life. This place is an antique itself, and I love it,” says Luigi, looking around the room admiringly. I feel his love, and again notice how easily I have slipped into another time and place in this room.
I so enjoyed that.
The Latch Inn and Restaurant is located at the end of Harbour Road, Sidney, at 2328. Call them at 250-656-4015, or email info@lathchinn.ca. For more information visit www.latchinn.ca.
