– by Hans Tammemagi –
A key to the success of the wineries bordering the Salish Sea (southern Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands) is that they produce quality wine with a distinctive coastal character. “At the most fundamental level,” said Elaine Kozak, the winemaker at Garry Oaks Winery on Salt Spring Island, “we have completely different growing conditions. The Okanagan and Ontario’s Niagara region are continental, whereas here there is a moderating maritime influence. We have milder winters, a longer growing season, and no problems with freezing during harvest.”
These conditions favour aromatic whites such as Pinot Gris, Siegerrebe, Ortega, Gewürtztraminer, and lighter-style reds such as Pinot Noir and Marechal Foch. These “coastal” wines show a unique elegance and complexity that pairs well with food,
especially fare from the sea.
From the beginning, 150 years ago when Father Pandosy made sacramental wine for his Kelowna parish, British Columbia wines have been blessed. The first commercial winery started in the Okanagan Valley in 1926, but the big boost came in 1988 with the removal of government tariffs on imported wine. To remain competitive, Canadian wine growers were forced to replace the overly sweet French hybrid varieties with traditional noble vinifera grapes. The strategy worked: the new grapes were successful, and wineries flourished. Today there are more than 230 wineries in B.C., compared to 14 before the change, and the Okanagan wines have achieved international recognition.
The local region was late to join the party. Since 1994, however, when Chalet Estates (now Muse Winery) opened in Saanich, the number of wineries has sprouted to five on the Gulf Islands, five in the Saanich Peninsula, and seven in the Cowichan Valley. The lush local climate and terrain also favour other fruit like apples, so excellent cider is also made here along with various fruit and berry wines, particularly blackberry wine. There are two cideries (one in Saanich, one in the Cowichan).
An appealing aspect of the “Wine Islands” is the area’s considerable charm and beauty with quaint cottage wineries each with their own signature. Almost all wineries are family-run, where winemakers came to their vineyards from other professions. Thus, wines are delightfully eclectic, often even eccentric. The wineries and cideries are set in glorious landscape, with rolling hills bordered by seascapes with coves and inlets. You can sit on a deck sipping a chilled Pinot Gris while watching sailboats catching the sun and breeze. The wineries are also closely tied into local farms, and many offer mouth-watering cuisine based on fresh, local produce. It’s a step back into a simpler time, with a friendly, casual approach to life.
2009 was an excellent year for our local wines. Conditions so far point to 2014 also being an exceptional vintage. I can hardly wait.
