– by Hans Tammemagi –
A pretty patchwork of rolling hills, towering trees, and bucolic farmland surrounds the Salish Sea. Furthermore, southern Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands enjoy the mildest, sunniest climate in the country. An extra bonus: the area also produces excellent wine with an elegant coastal character.
The perfect way to enjoy the Salish region is to tour along narrow, twisting roads that lead from one quaint cottage winery to another. The wineries, and cideries and meaderies too, are located in glorious countryside bordered by seascapes with coves and inlets. You can sit on a deck sipping a chilled Pinot Gris while watching sailboats catching the sun and breeze. Each one has considerable charm, beauty and its own signature. Almost all wineries are family-run – there is no mass production – so the wines are delightfully eclectic, often even eccentric.
The moderating maritime influence of the ocean, a longer growing season, and no problems with freezing during harvest favour aromatic whites such as Pinot Gris, Siegerrebe, Ortega, Gewürtztraminer, and lighter-style reds such as Pinot Noir and Marechal Foch. These “coastal” wines are chic with a unique complexity that pairs well with food, especially the bounty of the sea.
Although the first commercial winery in British Columbia started in the Okanagan Valley in 1926, the local region was late to join the party. Since 1994, however, when Chalet Estates (now Muse Winery) opened in Saanich, the number of wineries has sprouted to four on the Gulf Islands, ten in the Saanich Peninsula, and 16 in the Cowichan Valley. The local climate and terrain favour fruit like apples, so excellent cider is made here. There are three cideries and one meadery (honey-based wine). Many of the wineries also produce fruit and berry wines; particularly popular are blackberry dessert wines.
More happy news: the wineries offer much more than wine, namely, a wide selection of entertainment, art, and functions. For example, Muse Winery, a beautiful small winery in Deep Cove, has an attractive tent area where it displays art and holds shows with a difference. Imagine opera and ballet in the vineyard! Church & State Winery hosts more than a hundred functions each year, mostly weddings, in its spacious, attractive facility. The winery is renowned for its glistening, open-concept kitchen with a wood stove for flat breads, pizzas and other delicacies. A narrow dirt road winds uphill to De Vine Winery and glorious views over the landscape and sea. In addition to wines, the winery has expanded into distilled spirits with superb vodkas, gins and whiskeys.
And there’s much, much more. So, get out and explore this delightful countryside. You can travel from winery to winery along picturesque back roads by car (bring a designated driver), bicycle, or with a wine-tour company who will supply a van and wine-enthusiast driver. And don’t worry about sustenance for many of the wineries serve mouth-watering cuisine based on fresh, local produce.
Bon voyage!
