Words & Photos Richard Hope
It’s that time of year where long summer days drift into warm evenings relaxing at the beach or on the verandah, and a glass of Riesling is a great prospect.
Last month I was in the Finger Lakes region of New York State, meeting winemakers specializing in Riesling. It got me thinking: where can I find the best Riesling in British Columbia?
Riesling, a grape from the Rhine Valley in Germany, is considered one of the white wine world’s top three most prestigious varieties, alongside Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. It is highly aromatic, with notes of apricot, honey-crisp apple and pear developing during the winemaking process. It grows best in slate-based soils, tends to be left on the vine longer than most varieties, and carries a robust sweetness that offsets its famously high acidity.
That sweetness, though, is more nuanced than most people expect. Riesling spans a wider sugar range than almost any other white wine, from bone dry to rich dessert styles, and the label rarely makes it obvious. B.C. Rieslings generally sit at the drier end of that spectrum, with residual sugar kept in check by high natural acidity, making the sweetness code on the shelf label your most reliable guide.
British Columbia sits at the same latitude as northern Germany, and while the climate is quite different, the Okanagan is a superb region for producing fine Riesling. With a warm evening and an empty glass in mind, here are four bottles worth seeking out.
Tantalus 2021 Riesling
East Kelowna Slopes, Okanagan Valley, B.C. Price: $28, $32 (B.C. private liquor stores)
Sourced from estate blocks including vines planted in 1978, whole bunch pressed and fermented cool in stainless steel, this is Tantalus’ flagship and the wine that established Okanagan Riesling as a serious proposition internationally. Lime, mandarin and white honey dominate the nose, with a persistent white pepper thread running through to a saline, mineral finish.
Best pairings: Terrific on its own as a contemplative glass.
Gehringer Brothers Private Reserve Dry Riesling
Golden Mile Bench, Oliver, B.C. Price: $17, $20 (B.C. Liquor Stores and private)
Walter and Gordon Gehringer studied winemaking in Germany and brought that sensibility home to the South Okanagan. Apple blossom and white peach on the nose, a wet stone mineral backbone and a clean bitter lime finish. A fantastic everyday table wine.
Best pairings: Thai green curry, cedar-planked salmon, or B.C. Dungeness crab.
Synchromesh Riesling
Multi-site, Naramata Bench / Okanagan Falls / Oliver, B.C. Price: $25, $28 (winery direct and private stores)
Synchromesh is the spiritual home of B.C. Riesling, a boutique family operation in Okanagan Falls that has built its entire identity around the variety. The flagship draws fruit
from four vineyards and delivers green apple, sweet pear and a surge of juicy acidity. Off-dry, vibrant and wickedly drinkable.
Best pairings: Charcuterie with pickled vegetables, fresh oysters or a simple cheese plate on a warm patio.
Dr. Loosen Blue Slate Dry Riesling 2023
Mosel, Germany Price: $22, $26 (B.C. Liquor Stores and private)
No list of Riesling recommendations would be complete without a nod to the source. From parcels in the villages of Bernkastel, Graach and Wehlen, where the soil is pure blue slate, this is the benchmark against which the others are quietly measured. Bright white peach, delicate florals and flinty minerality at an exceptional price.
Best pairings: B.C. oysters on the half shell, or grilled halibut with a squeeze of lemon.
Whether you are new to Riesling or a long-time devotee, these four bottles offer a wonderful tour of the variety’s range, from the sun-drenched slopes of the Okanagan to the ancient slate riverbanks of the Mosel. Pour a glass, find a spot in the evening sun, and let the wine do the rest.
