Words Richard Hope
When I first arrived in B.C. three years ago, I couldn’t believe the variety of wines available locally. One type caught my eye that I had never heard of. Meritage wines (pronounced to rhyme with “heritage”) are a New World category of wines made in the Bordeaux style, though under European Union regulations, they are not allowed to be called Bordeaux wines.
Meritage wines are blended from the same grapes as those in Bordeaux blends. These include Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. They can also include Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carmenere. White Meritage also exists and is usually a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle de Bordelais. Crucially, for both red and white wines, no single grape variety can be more than 90%, a rule that sits at the very heart of what makes a wine a Meritage.
When I arrived in B.C., I originally thought Meritage was a local product, but in fact its origins are a bit farther south in Napa, California. Back in the late 80s, a group of winemakers came together to form the Meritage Association (now known as the Meritage Alliance) to develop a classification to identify Bordeaux blends. Prior to this, the rules governing winemaking were quite strict and limited winemakers’ ability to produce more interesting products. After the introduction of the Meritage classification, winemakers were free to blend whatever they liked, so long as they used the grapes listed above. What started as a small association has now grown to over 200 members, including right here in B.C., and I’ve been lucky enough to try a few of the B.C. members myself.
Some of the highlights from across the province include:
Mission Hill Family Estate, Reserve Red Meritage 2022
A Cabernet Sauvignon-led blend, roughly 44% Cabernet Sauvignon and 36% Merlot, with Cabernet Franc and Malbec rounding things out, sourced largely from Osoyoos and Black Sage Bench fruit. Expect dark fruit, bramble and dried herb character, with a touch of vanilla from time in French oak. The tannins are smooth and well integrated, giving a full-bodied wine with a long finish. It’s approachable now, but has the structure to reward a few more years in the cellar.
Fort Berens Estate Winery, Reserve Meritage 2021
This one leans Merlot-dominant, roughly 42% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc, all from estate-grown fruit in Lillooet’s Dry Creek and Red Rock vineyards. Fruit-forward on the nose with plum, raspberry and cassis, plus vanilla notes from 15 months in French oak. The palate is smooth with a long finish and a pleasant dark chocolate note at the end. It’s already drinking well, but has the backbone to age for a few more years.
Quails’ Gate, Meritage 2023
Heavily Merlot-driven, around 80%, with small additions of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec, fermented separately on the skins before spending time in French oak. The result is medium-bodied and inviting, with notes of red licorice, plum and vanilla up front, moving into silky tannins, cedar and cocoa powder on the palate, finishing long. It’s already drinking beautifully and would pair well with richer dishes like osso buco or smoked ribs.
These three provide a nice spread across B.C.’s Meritage producers: one Okanagan estate-leaning Cabernet Sauvignon, one from the emerging Lillooet region, and one classic Kelowna house-leaning Merlot, showing how much stylistic range exists within a single category.
