From the Kitchen – Brine On

by Joan Saunders | photos by Kathryn Alvarez Photography – 

Cooking and baking, for me, is sometimes an interesting, not always successful, experiment – I like to try out new dishes and new techniques, so I’m not continually wallowing in a recipe rut (as has often been known to happen). I also write any resulting comments and ideas in my cookbooks, so I don’t forget what worked and what didn’t with a particular dish; I can’t always assume that I will remember how something was augmented or altered.

But a few years ago, when my son was keen to try brining, which was new to me, I figured that the process would just turn expensive meat into a salty blob. Truthfully, it sounded weird. I discovered, however, that it most definitely isn’t.

What I learned was that brining helps to produce a gorgeously flavourful and juicy turkey. We initially tried brining with a turkey breast roast, as it seemed more manageable than dealing with a whole turkey; let’s just say that I was very pleasantly surprised. Apparently the salt dissolves protein in the muscle fibres and allows the roast to absorb the brine and retain moisture during cooking. Then when you wrap it in bacon, you get a crispy addition to an already fabulous roast turkey breast.

What I also like about cooking a turkey breast roast is that it’s perfect for a smaller crowd. It also makes the most amazing sandwiches (if you happen to have any leftovers). So, for Easter dinner this year, I’ll be making this tasty option again, along with a pan of roasted vegetables.
You can substitute whatever veggies you would prefer in the dish, as the secret ingredient is balsamic vinegar. The vinegar helps to caramelize the veggies, and adds a tangy, earthy sweetness to the recipe, which is a perfect accompaniment to the turkey.

My advice, in the end? Brine on. You’ll be so glad you did.

Brined Turkey Breast with Pancetta/ Bacon Wrap
2/3 cup kosher salt
1/3 cup sugar
1 garlic head, halved crosswise
2 tsp peppercorns
2 tbsp red pepper flakes
1/2 tsp ground cayenne
1 lemon
5 bay leaves
1 boneless, skin on, turkey breast (about 3 lbs)
olive oil
pancetta or bacon (enough to wrap breast)
cooking twine
meat thermometer

Put salt, sugar, garlic, peppercorns, pepper flakes, bay leaves, cayenne in large pot with 4 cups of water. Remove lemon zest from lemon in large strips (use knife or vegetable peeler); halve the lemon. Squeeze juice from lemon into pot, then add both lemon halves and zest. Bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer; stir occasionally. When salt and sugar have dissolved, remove pot from stove; add 8 cups cold water. Cool brine to room temperature. Submerge turkey breast in brine; cover, refrigerate overnight, or up to 24 hours.

Two hours before cooking, remove breast from brine; sit at room temperature.

Preheat oven to 425°. Take wrapping off breast and tie up with twine. Wrap brined breast with bacon or pancetta; tuck meat under twine wrap or use toothpicks to hold in place.

Put a tablespoon of olive oil in Dutch oven or oven-proof pan. Heat pan on stovetop for couple of minutes; place turkey breast in hot pan. Then put hot pan into oven for 10 minutes at the very back – the hottest part of oven. The heat blast ensures it starts to brown. Turn oven down to 350°. Cook breast for about 30 minutes per pound (1½ hours for 3 lb breast), or until it registers 160° at thickest point.

Remove breast from oven and from pan. Wrap with foil; rest meat at least 10 minutes before slicing. To serve, slice against the grain, crosswise.

Balsamic Roasted Vegetables
1 small squash (butternut, acorn) peeled, seeded, cut into 3/4 inch cubes
2 medium potatoes, peeled, cut into 3/4 inch cubes
2 red bell peppers, seeded, cut into 3/4 inch cubes
2 sweet potatoes, peeled, cut into 3/4 inch cubes
1 red onion, peeled, cut into eighths (can add or substitute other veggies: carrots, zucchini, as desired)
1/4 cup olive oil
3 tbsp balsamic vinegar
2 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary
1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme
salt, pepper

Preheat oven to 450°. Place all veggies in roasting pan. Combine oil, vinegar, rosemary, thyme together with some salt, pepper. Pour over veggies; toss until well coated. Spread out in pan in even layer. Roast in oven 35 to 40 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes, until slightly caramelized, cooked through.
Can be made ahead, reheated.

Adapted from:
https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/9377/roasted-vegetables/
Salt Fat Acid Heat, Samin Nosrat, Simon & Schuster, 2017

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