by Hans Tammemagi –
It’s unofficial, but in my mind Cardiff ranks among the top 10 cities on the planet. How can you not love a city full of pubs, with a crenellated castle at its centre, where a bizarre language is spoken and there is a confusingly large proportion of males named David?
When I checked in at the Jolyon Hotel, the window gave enticing views onto the stolid walls and colourful clock tower of Cardiff Castle. I quickly joined Cardiff Cycle Tours and set out to explore.
To the soothing sound of wheels spinning over cobbles, we rode along the bank of the Taff River. I was pleasantly surprised that Cardiff (population 350,000) is designed around pedestrians, not cars. And being flat, it’s perfect for cycling. I could feel the pulse, the heart throb of the city as we rolled from one landmark to another, stopping whenever our curiosity desired.
The downtown encompasses St. David’s Shopping Centre and broad, open walkways that contrast with the surrounding delightful narrow lanes, arcades and cobbled streets. The Gatekeeper, the City Arms, the Old Arcade, the Owain Glyndwr and numerous other pubs kept interrupting our wandering, luring us in with foaming pints of Brains cask ale, the local brew.
Bilingual signs are everywhere. The Welsh are proud of their language, although I was baffled by its consonant-filled, tongue-twisting words like Cymraeg, wrthgyferbyniadau and Etifeddiaeth.
Next day I cycled to Cardiff Bay, a beautifully restored former dockland, where the sun sparkled on waves and the tang of salt water drifted in the air. I strolled along large open plazas, visiting the Dr. Who Experience, the Norwegian Church and riding an old merry-go-round. I explored the Wales Millennium Centre, a spectacular huge opera house. It is one of the finest in the world and celebrates the Welsh love of music. Nearby, sits the Senedd proudly, the National Assembly of Wales, an environmentally ultra-friendly, new (2006) building featuring Welsh slate and acres of glass. Time flew by as I jostled with friendly crowds who were drawn by boat tours, cafés, art exhibits and, of course, pubs.
On my final day, under another cloudless sky, I embarked on the Cardiff Centenary Walk whose 41 stops designate landmarks and historic events. I meandered through markets rich with the colours and aromas of vegetables, flowers and fresh fish. I passed St. John’s Church from the 12th century, narrow arcades and remnants of the old fortified city walls. A passerby pointed at the enormous Millennium Stadium and said: “That’s the Notre Dame Cathedral of Wales, and rugby is the religion.”
I entered the gate of Cardiff Castle, which dates to Roman times, and toured through lavish apartments and an interior Norman keep. Then I visited the City Hall in Cathays Park, one of the most impressive civic centres in Britain. The clock tower rises 60 metres, with a Welsh dragon roaring at the top. The interior is ornate with a domed council chamber, and an impressive art collection adorns the walls. Next door are the Law Courts and National Museum of Wales.
The tour continued through Alexandra Garden with its War Memorial and bronzed figures of a soldier, sailor and airman. I gazed across the street to the imposing main building of Cardiff University, a reminder that Cardiff is a university city with a boisterous night life.
I sought out a pub – not difficult! – and while savouring a pint of Brains, marvelled at the long history and proud culture of this Welsh capital. Cheers, all you Davids!
